Introduction
South Asian fashion terminology can be overwhelming for the uninitiated—Hindi, Tamil, Urdu, and regional languages blend with English in modern fashion discourse. This comprehensive glossary defines essential terms across garment types, fabrics, embroidery techniques, jewelry, and styling vocabulary. Whether shopping for Indian wear, discussing pieces with sellers, or simply seeking to understand fashion conversations, this resource provides authoritative definitions.
Part 1: Garment Types
Major Garments
Saree: Single piece of fabric (typically 5-6 yards) draped around the body, covering lower body and one shoulder. The most iconic South Asian garment, worn by draping the fabric in region-specific techniques.
Lehenga: Skirt (flared, often heavily embroidered) worn with a fitted blouse (choli) and scarf (dupatta). Common in North India and at celebrations. Components can be matched or contrasting.
Choli: Fitted blouse worn with lehenga or under saree. Can have varying backlines, sleeve styles, and embellishment levels. Tailored and stitched to individual measurements.
Salwar Kameez: Ensemble consisting of loose pants (salwar) and tunic top (kameez), typically worn with scarf (dupatta). Originally from Punjab and Afghanistan, now worn across North India.
Salwar: Loose pants gathered at ankles. Worn with kameez in salwar kameez ensembles.
Kameez: Tunic-style top (knee-length, loose fitting) worn with salwar. Distinct from fitted choli.
Dupatta: Long scarf (6-8 feet typical) draped over shoulders or head. Functional (modesty) and decorative element in most South Asian ensembles. Embroidery or embellishment common.
Ghagra: Skirt worn in Rajasthan and Gujarat. Similar to lehenga (flared, gathered), often heavily embroidered.
Kurti: Casual tunic worn alone or with pants/leggings. More contemporary, casual version of kameez.
Salwar: Loose, straight-leg or slightly gathered pants worn with kameez.
Churidar: Tight pants (gathered at ankles) worn with kameez. More fitted than salwar.
Dhoti: Traditional wrapped garment worn by men (and historically women). Single piece wrapped around waist and legs.
Lungi: Wrapped skirt-like garment worn primarily by men in South India and other regions. Casual, practical wear.
Anarkali: Long, flowing gown-style dress with gathered skirt section. Contemporary creation named after historical courtesan.
Peplum (in context of Indian fashion): Top with flared hem section worn with pants or leggings.
Chaniya Choli: Gujarati version of lehenga-choli ensemble, typically with mirror work and vibrant colors.
Regional/Specialized Garments
Mundu: Traditional Kerala garment for women; draped skirt worn with blouse.
Navari/Navaari: Traditional Maharashtran saree worn in specific draping style (uniquely folded, not pallu drape).
Phetas: Headwear worn with traditional sarees in some regions.
Odhni/Chunri: Large scarf/shawl worn in Rajasthan, often with traditional ensembles.
Chador: Long shawl worn with salwar kameez, draped over shoulders and front.
Cummerbund/Obi: Fitted belt worn around waist, often with sarees or ensembles for definition.
Petticoat: Underskirt worn under saree (supports draping, adds volume to pallu).
Blouse piece: Unstitched fabric included with saree (approximately 1 meter); buyer tailors to fit.
Part 2: Fabrics and Materials
Silk Types
Mulberry silk: Standard silk produced from silkworms fed exclusively on mulberry leaves. Smooth, lustrous, most common premium silk.
Tussar silk: Wild silk with textured, slubby weave. Natural appearance, matte finish. More durable than mulberry silk.
Kanjivaram/Kanjeevaram silk: Heavy pure silk from South India (Kanchipuram). Typically woven with gold zari. Premium, wedding-appropriate.
Banarasi silk: Handwoven silk from Varanasi, typically with gold thread (zardozi) integrated. Opulent, heavy, formal wear standard.
Chanderi silk: Lightweight silk-cotton blend from Madhya Pradesh. Transparent, elegant, party-wear typical.
Organza: Lightweight, crisp silk or silk-blend fabric. Transparent or semi-transparent. Used for borders, formal wear.
Dupion/Duppi: Thick, textured silk with irregular weave. Creates richly varied surface appearance.
Tussar cotton blend: Tussar (wild) silk combined with cotton. Common for contemporary, sustainable wear.
Chiffon: Lightweight, flowing silk or polyester fabric. Transparent, drapes elegantly. Modern wear and borders.
Cotton Types
Handloom cotton: Hand-spun and hand-woven cotton. Natural appearance, slight irregularities, sustainable and durable.
Khadi: Hand-spun and hand-woven using traditional spinning wheel (charkha). Iconic Indian textile, political significance.
Muslin: Extremely fine cotton from historical Dacca (now Dhaka, Bangladesh). Historically renowned for transparency and fineness.
Chettinad cotton: Checked or striped cotton from Tamil Nadu. Durable, traditional, temple-wear common.
Tant: Handwoven cotton from Bengal. Simple patterns, durable, traditional, affordable.
Linen: Plant-based fiber, natural appearance, breathable. Less common in South Asian fashion but used in contemporary pieces.
Blend Fabrics
Cotton-silk blend: Combined cotton and silk fibers. Offers cotton comfort with silk elegance. Common in contemporary South Asian wear.
Silk-linen blend: Combined silk and linen. Lightweight, textured appearance.
Polyester-cotton blend: Mixed synthetic and natural. Budget option, less durable than pure materials.
Problematic Materials (Avoid)
Polyester: Synthetic petroleum-based fabric. Doesn’t breathe, wrinkles permanently, environmentally problematic. Avoid for quality pieces.
Rayon: Semi-synthetic fiber from cellulose. Budget alternative, less durable than natural fibers.
Synthetic blends: More than 20% synthetic content reduces fabric quality, longevity, comfort.
Part 3: Embroidery and Embellishment Techniques
Metal Thread Embroidery
Zardozi: Gold or silver thread couched (applied) onto fabric and secured with silk thread. Opulent, traditional North Indian technique.
Zari: General term for gold or silver thread used in embroidery.
Aari: Hook-based embroidery tool used for couching zari thread. Aari zardozi refers to this technique application.
Gotta/Gotta patti: Metallic ribbon or trim applied to garment borders through couching or stitching.
Kundan: Setting of smooth stones (typically glass) into gold foil backing. Creates gemstone appearance. Increasingly applied to garments.
Meenakari: Enamel work; colored enamel fused to metal base at high temperature. Creates permanent, vibrant color.
Hand Needlework Embroidery
Chikankari: Ultra-fine white needlework on white fabric (or light colors). Lucknow specialty, delicate and prestigious.
Phulkari: Counted-thread embroidery using silk floss, typically on cotton. Punjab specialty, features floral-inspired patterns.
Kantha: Running-stitch embroidery creating patterns through simple stitching. Often quilted (multiple layers stitched together).
Mirror work/Shisha: Technique attaching small glass mirrors to fabric with decorative stitching around edges. Gujarat specialty.
Hand embroidery: General term for any embroidery stitched by hand (as opposed to machine). Quality and value vary significantly.
Machine Embroidery
Machine embroidery: Embroidery created by industrial machine. Less labor-intensive than hand embroidery, lower value.
Computerized embroidery: Machine embroidery designed and executed by computer-guided machines. Precise, fast, less artisanal.
Beadwork and Stone Attachment
Beadwork: Attachment of beads (seed beads, larger beads, stones) to fabric through stitching or adhesive.
Sequin work: Application of sequins (shiny disc-shaped elements) through stitching or adhesive.
Rhinestone: Cut glass or crystal simulating diamond sparkle. Machine-applied to garments.
Pearl work: Attachment of pearls (cultured or faux) to garment.
Printing Techniques
Block printing: Traditional hand-printing using carved wooden blocks and natural dyes. Creates unique variations.
Bandhani: Tie-dye technique creating patterns through resist dyeing. Creates characteristic dot patterns.
Batik: Wax-resist dyeing creating patterns. Less common in South Asian fashion.
Screen printing: Modern printing technique using screens and dyes.
Part 4: Jewelry and Adornment Terms
Traditional Jewelry Types
Kundan jewelry: Jewelry with glass stones set in gold foil. Creates gemstone appearance without precious stone cost.
Polki jewelry: Jewelry with uncut diamonds set in gold. Similar technique to kundan but uses actual diamonds.
Temple jewelry: Bronze or copper jewelry (gold-plated finish) with religious motifs. Often ornate, affordable.
Meenakari jewelry: Jewelry with enamel work (colored enamel fused to metal).
Filigree: Delicate metalwork creating patterns through thin wire application.
Jadau: Another term for kundan work (historical and regional variation).
Jewelry Pieces
Necklace: Worn around neck. Varies from delicate chains to elaborate pendant pieces.
Maang tika: Ornamental piece hanging from hair parting onto forehead. Worn by married women in some traditions.
Jhumka: Traditional earring style, typically gold or brass with bell-like shape and embellishment.
Bangle: Circular wrist ornament. Worn in sets, often 8-12 pieces covering wrist.
Anklet/Kaizulu: Ankle ornament worn on foot. South Indian tradition particularly.
Ring: Finger ornament, can be simple or elaborate.
Bracelet: Wrist ornament (distinct from bangles; bracelet implies singular piece).
Nose ring/Nath: Traditional nose ornament worn by married women in some regions.
Bindi: Decorative forehead mark, can be traditional (worn on parting) or contemporary (worn on center forehead).
Materials and Metals
22k gold: Indian standard for gold jewelry. 22 parts gold, 2 parts alloy. High purity, common for traditional jewelry.
18k gold: Lower purity (18 parts gold, 6 parts alloy). Still premium, slightly more durable due to alloy content.
Gold-plated: Base metal (copper, brass, bronze) with thin gold coating.
Gold-wash: Extremely thin gold layer; essentially costume jewelry.
Sterling silver: 92.5% pure silver. Premium silver standard.
Hallmark: Official government stamp indicating gold purity.
Moissanite: Diamond simulant (lab-created, less expensive than diamond).
Part 5: Styling and Wearing Terms
Draping Terms
Pallu: Decorative end of saree (typically 1-2 yards) draped over shoulder or across chest.
Pleat/Pleats: Folds created in saree at waist (South Indian style creates 3-5 distinct pleats).
Fall: How saree drapes at ankle/hem (should hang straight and elegant).
Blouse: Component worn under saree or as part of lehenga-choli ensemble.
Petticoat: Underskirt supporting saree drape and adding volume to pallu.
Draping style: Regional method of wrapping and arranging saree (South Indian method differs from North Indian, etc.).
Style Categories
Casual wear: Everyday clothing, less formal, can be printed or embroidered lightly.
Formal wear: Wedding, important ceremonies, requires elaborate embellishment and quality materials.
Party wear: Semi-formal, festive occasions (celebrations, smaller ceremonies).
Temple wear: Appropriate for religious visits, often conservative colors (whites, golds).
Wedding wear: Elaborate, heavily embellished, premium materials. Different from casual or party wear.
Bridal wear: Most formal, extensive embellishment, premium fabrics, highest price point.
Color and Design Terms
Solid/Solid color: Single color throughout garment (no patterns or prints).
Printed: Patterns created through printing technique (block print, screen print, etc.).
Embroidered: Patterns created through embroidery techniques.
Brocaded: Pattern woven into fabric during weaving (appears to be embroidered but is actually woven).
Zari border: Border created from gold thread embroidery or weaving.
Pallu pattern: Decorative pattern on saree pallu section.
Body design: Pattern or embellishment on main saree body (as opposed to border or pallu).
Condition and Quality Terms
Pristine: Like-new condition, never or very rarely worn.
Excellent condition: Worn once or twice, professionally cleaned, no damage visible.
Good condition: Worn multiple times, minor wear visible, no damage.
Fair condition: Noticeably worn, possible minor staining or damage.
Heavy wear: Extensively worn, significant staining or damage possible.
Authentic handloom: Verified hand-produced (not machine-made).
Certified: Has official certification of origin or quality (GI mark, etc.).
Part 6: Manufacturing and Production Terms
Weaving and Production
Handloom: Hand-powered loom producing fabric through traditional weaving.
Handwoven: Fabric produced on handloom.
Machine-made: Fabric produced on industrial looms.
Handspun: Thread spun by hand (typically using spinning wheel/charkha).
Warp and weft: Vertical (warp) and horizontal (weft) threads in weaving.
Selvage: Finished edges of fabric (side edges).
Count: Thread density in fabric (higher count = finer fabric).
Quality and Production Methods
Fast fashion: Mass-produced, low-cost, quick production and consumption.
Slow fashion: Quality-focused, sustainable, ethical production and consumption.
Artisanal: Handmade by skilled artisans (implies quality and craft).
Mass-produced: Factory-made, standardized, high volume.
Custom/Bespoke: Made-to-order for individual customer.
Ready-made: Pre-made, standard sizing, immediately available.
Regional and Certification Terms
GI (Geographical Indication): Government protection for regionally-specific products (e.g., Banarasi silk, Kanjivaram saree).
Handloom Mark: Government certification verifying hand production.
Pure silk: 100% silk content (no synthetic blends).
Pure cotton: 100% cotton content (no synthetic blends).
Silk board certified: Certification from Indian Silk Board for silk content and quality.
Fair trade: Certified ethical production with fair wages and safe conditions.
Part 7: Fashion Business Terms
Selling and Pricing
MRP/Marked Retail Price: Official retail price suggested by manufacturer.
Asking price: Price seller is asking for item (may differ from MRP, especially for secondhand).
Condition grade: Assessment of garment wear level (affects pricing).
Price retention: Percentage of original price retained in resale.
Maker’s charge/Making charges: Fee paid to artisan or manufacturer for creation of jewelry or custom garment.
Commission: Fee charged by resale platform (typically 10-20% of sale price).
Market and Selling Platforms
Resale market: Secondary market for previously owned items.
Secondhand: Previously owned, used item (does not mean poor condition).
Vintage: Generally 20+ years old; often appreciates in value for collectible items.
High street/Retail: Traditional brick-and-mortar stores and standard retail pricing.
Online platform: Digital marketplace for buying and selling.
Direct artisan: Purchasing directly from artisan or cooperative.
Middleman: Intermediary between artisan and retail consumer (reduces artisan benefit).
Part 8: Care and Maintenance Terms
Cleaning and Care
Dry clean: Professional cleaning using chemical solvents (recommended for delicate or embellished pieces).
Hand wash: Gentle washing by hand in cool water with mild soap.
Machine wash: Industrial washing machine (generally not recommended for Indian wear).
Stain: Discoloration from spill, wear, or damage.
Fade: Color loss or lightening due to age, sun exposure, or washing.
Wrinkle recovery: Fabric’s ability to release wrinkles naturally (good quality fabrics recover quickly).
Oxidation (of zari): Natural darkening of gold thread with age (authentic marker, not damage).
Storage Terms
Muslin cloth: Breathable cotton cloth used for wrapping garments in storage.
Acid-free tissue: Paper that won’t damage fabrics over time.
Mothballs: Repellent for insects, not recommended (smell impossible to remove).
Climate control: Maintaining stable temperature and humidity to preserve garments.
Preservation: Careful storage and maintenance to extend garment lifespan.
Part 9: Cultural and Tradition Terms
Occasions and Celebrations
Mehndi: Pre-wedding celebration featuring henna application on hands and arms.
Haldi: Pre-wedding ceremony where turmeric paste (haldi) is applied to bride.
Engagement: Formal betrothal ceremony.
Wedding: Primary ceremony, often day-long celebration with multiple events.
Reception: Post-wedding celebration, typically evening event.
Diwali: Festival of lights (major celebration).
Holi: Festival of colors (spring celebration).
Navratri: Nine-night festival celebrating goddess (regional variations).
Onam: Kerala harvest festival.
Eid: Islamic festival marking end of Ramadan or pilgrimage completion.
Family and Relationship Terms
Bride: Woman being married.
Groom: Man being married.
Bridal wear: Elaborate outfit worn by bride.
Guest wear: Appropriate outfit for wedding guest.
Heirloom: Garment or jewelry passed through family generations.
Intergenerational wearing: Passing garments between family members across generations.
Family tradition: Custom passed through family over time.
Modesty and Tradition Terms
Dupatta: Scarf worn for modesty and decoration (essential for traditional ensembles).
Draping tradition: Region-specific method of covering body through garment arrangement.
Conservative dress: Modest clothing covering most of body (religious or cultural preference).
Traditional aesthetic: Appearance aligned with historical or cultural norms.
Formal occasion: Significant event requiring elevated dress standards.
Conclusion
South Asian fashion terminology reflects centuries of cultural evolution, regional specialization, and artisanal tradition. Understanding these terms enables informed conversation about garments, meaningful engagement with textile and fashion communities, and appreciation of the sophistication embedded in South Asian fashion culture. Whether purchasing pieces, learning about traditions, or appreciating the craftsmanship, this glossary provides foundation for clear, respectful engagement with South Asian fashion.
